The Tengger Desert is located in Alashan Left Banner, Inner Mongolia, spanning three provinces: Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, and Gansu. It is China's fourth-largest desert. We departed from Yinchuan, drove two hours to Alashan, and switched to off-road vehicles to begin our journey across the Five Lakes.
The Five Lakes include Camel Lake, Ulan Lake, Egg Yolk Lake, Haiqiuqi Lake, and Guitar Lake. Due to overcast skies without sunshine, the other lakes were less striking, with only Ulan Lake retaining its distinctive character. “Ulan” means ‘red’ in Mongolian, and the lake's water resembles blood due to its rich content of microorganisms like Dunaliella salina and halophilic bacteria. These algae release phycocarotene, giving the water its unique hue. Drone footage reveals Ulan Lake's heart-like shape, with salt-alkali patterns resembling blood vessels—earning it the nickname “Earth's Heart.”
The off-road vehicle navigated the desert dunes, climbing and descending with frequent sharp turns. The experience felt like an amplified roller coaster ride—though slower in speed, the intense jolts far surpassed any roller coaster, earning it the playful nickname “sand coaster.” Seatbelts must be worn throughout the journey, and those prone to motion sickness or sensitive to thrills should proceed with caution.
Beyond photo stops at the five lakes, the off-road vehicle also halted atop a high sand dune for pictures. Surrounded by undulating dunes resembling desert waves, the drone footage captured an awe-inspiring vista. Standing amidst such vastness, one feels profoundly insignificant, truly experiencing nature's grandeur.
The Five Lakes crossing takes about 2-3 hours. Every October, Alashan hosts the Heroes Festival, attracting many self-driving vehicles to traverse the desert. Without relevant experience, driving in the desert can be quite dangerous—we've heard of rollovers, and rescue costs can be steep.
After leaving the desert, we got off the off-road vehicle and drove to a desert camp near Zhongwei, Ningxia. Access required switching to the hotel's off-road vehicle, though this stretch was less thrilling than our earlier crossing. The desert camp offers multiple recreational activities. We started with ATVs—all-terrain motorcycles suitable for various landscapes. Instructors guided us on handling the throttle, signaling when to turn, climb, or descend slopes. It proved somewhat challenging for beginners, who hesitated to accelerate beyond 20 km/h. We circled the desert for about ten minutes. Next, we opted for the more relaxed camel ride. Several camels were tethered together, with a lead camel guided by a park professional. Riders mounted the trailing camels, needing only to adjust their posture with the camel's movements. We circled the desert for another ten minutes or so. Dismounting required caution— as some camels resisted lying down. After a stern command, they suddenly lowered themselves—at that moment, you must hold on tight and adjust your body to descend with them. Finally, we tried the desert buggies. We rode in a two-seater with a professional driver up front. It was like an open-top off-road vehicle, moving quite fast—probably over 40 km/h. This gave us a much more direct experience of the desert wind and sand. It's best to wear a sand-proof helmet or a scarf. Luckily, the ride wasn't long, only about ten minutes, but it felt much more thrilling than riding in an off-road vehicle.
Due to light rain in the evening, the bonfire gathering was canceled, though fireworks were still permitted—though it took ages to light them. Strolling through the desert at night had its own unique charm. The damp sand made walking easier and more stable. Not seeing the desert stars or moon left a slight regret. I'll have to find another chance to visit the Badain Jaran Desert, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is only a few hundred kilometers from the Tengger Desert. Starting from Zhangye in Gansu Province would likely be a more convenient route.